Collazzi is a model winery in Tuscany, where the Marchese Lamberto de' Frescobaldi, together with the oenologist Alberto Torelli and his team, are reaching ever new heights thanks to their ever-new ideas. A visit that is also made possible by the
history of the centuries.
"This is where I learned to ride a Vespa," says Marchese Lamberto de' Frescobaldi, pointing to the dusty avenue of cypresses. Then as now: he loves speed. On motorcycles, in racing cars. We'll come back to that. The avenue also leads away from our history, away from one of the most important villas in the region around Florence, and anyone who knows Florence and its region will have an idea of what
this statement means. But before we get bogged down: where are we, what are we doing?
We are standing in front of the Villa Collazzi. It is located in Giogoli, very close to Scandicci, 7 kilometers outside of Florence, on the "Colli Pazzi," as the Marchese puts it. Ah yes - you can see the dome of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. As the name Frescobaldi suggests, this is about the unconditional love of wine. "Collazzi is a private project," the Marchese clarifies, but "we used to spend our holidays here," he adds. This is how you imagine country life. In a majestic villa, which was completed in 1560 based on the plans of Michelangelo's student Santi di Tito.
Change? 300 hectares of land, of which 120 hectares are olive groves, 33 hectares are vineyards, the rest is forest. Inside there is a consecrated private chapel with a papal throne, a library, a comprehensive archive of documents that documents numerous transactions between the Strozzi, Dini and Medici families, probably the largest billiard table in Italy, which shows that billiards was played by hand back then, two valuable globes, meticulously made around 1711 without Australia because it was unknown at the time. There are radiant pictures on the walls that are so large they must have been made in the rooms themselves, artfully crafted porcelain for the Dini family in a massive sideboard whose dimensions cannot be measured with a normal tape measure, and furniture upon furniture that could tell a story. But they are silent. The interior of the villa is tranquillity itself.
Everything is original. Room by room, you can walk through cultural history and touch it – well. The villa remains primarily a private house and not a museum, although the family tends to spend most of their time on the upper floor. Downstairs, the large, unheated, high rooms are of course impressive, and are connected invisibly behind the scenes by the servants' corridors. The true essence of wealth is also evident in the little things that have stoically survived the centuries here in all modesty and despite all the confusion, madmen and bombardments. Remarkable. For example, on the table in the red room (next to an antique wooden orange press) there is a strange voting box. You pass it around, choose a ball and place it in the box under the wooden cover, invisible to the viewer. Either on the left for "SI" or on the right for "NO". This practical box has probably prevented many a dispute in the family's decisions.
The small, inconspicuous chaise longue in one of the bedrooms could also be a little worn. Apparently, Prince Charles was so taken with it that he had a copy made. He and Diana stayed in this room in April 1985. The Marchi family are friends with the English royal family and the Frescobaldi family supplied wine to them and to other royal families as early as the 15th century. Do you know Thomas Cromwell? He met the banker Francesco Frescobaldi in Florence in 1533 and who knows what other connections he made? It's another story, although many things are connected to many things, just as the Marchi and Frescobaldi families have been in a relationship since 1958.
It starts right away. First of all, however, the bankers Baccio and Agostino Dini bought the property in 1534, on which the aforementioned architect Santi di Tito completed construction of the villa 26 years later. In 1933, the brothers Carlo and Giulio Marchi acquired the property, renovated it and completed it in its current form. Admittedly, that is a big leap in time, but we have to move on because the Marchese has little time. The story of how he learned to ride a Vespa in the Villa Colazzi has - as mentioned - to do with marriage. Bona Marchi, who took over the villa together with her brother Carlo, married a man named Vittorio de' Frescobaldi and they had four children. Son Lamberto has been in charge of the agriculture and winemaking division of the de' Frescobaldi family business since 1989 - "in the 30th generation", as he emphasizes with experience. Somehow it was only natural that he would also take a little interest in the fortunes of the vines on Collazzi. "Admittedly, with the name de' Frescobaldi it's a little easier," he says mischievously. Our story is slowly gaining momentum.
"Collazzi is like a wonderful dream for me. My mother and uncle asked me what could be done here. I replied that I was not capable of anything here except making some wine." The departure was a done deal. "From the beginning, we did not see Collazzi as a Frescobaldi winery. I did not want any conflicts of interest and thanks to Collazzi, I was able to get to know other people personally, like Reto Vergani, who serve smaller distribution channels and are highly specialized. People who say what they think and want to build up the project close to our hearts with us. What luck!" he says. The old vines were pulled out and the first vintage came onto the market in 1999. The vineyards around Collazzi were gradually planted primarily with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Sangiovese is almost impossible to find, although it does appear naturally in Bastioni, the house's DOCG Chianti Classico, where it is rounded off with just a little Merlot and Malvasia Nera.
"We wrote the first invoice by hand," remembers the Marchese. They didn't have a computer. "Collazzi is what you do when you want to and can see all the details of wine production," he says. The enthusiastic and inspiring joy is palpable. "That's not possible with larger projects; here we can control every step and at the same time we can't afford to make any mistakes," he says, and by that he means above all Alberto Torelli, whom he hired 17 years ago to head the oenology department. Torelli nods. He has also joined us. It is evening. We are sitting in the Locanda Collazzi, the sophisticated restaurant above the wine cellar that is dedicated to "excellence in food and wine and the sense of beauty." Lamberto de' Frescobaldi explains it like this: "Much of what we offer here comes from our own vineyards. Cattle, chickens, olive oil, wine – we put a lot of spirit and soul into it," says the Marchese, knowing that not all guests understand this luxury as such. "Collazzi is not a codified beauty," he says, but does not want to elaborate any further. Alberto Torelli, on the other hand, can hardly contain himself. You can feel his enthusiasm literally flowing through his body. "I was able to help build everything up, year after year, step by step. An old fattoria has become a leading quality winery – that is all we are interested in," he says, and he says it without bragging. "With 5,000 bottles of wine per hectare, Collazzi remains a small winery, but one that still inspires me every day. I just can't stop passionate about it. I am in love with this place and its soil," he says, who began working on these hills at the tender age of 23. Apparently because Torelli, his straightforward manner and his honest opinion had impressed the Marchese at a wine fair in Merano, and the latter had offered him a job at the fair. "I like it when people say what they think and know what they want. Because Reto Vergani does the same, we have been able to grow together since 2004. We have found each other, it is a beautiful path on which we always meet with a smile," says Lamberto de' Frescobaldi. "Unfortunately, the Marchese does not accept everything," murmurs Vergani at the table, while the Marchese repeats: "Well, at least Vergani comes across as a man of honor." Then they laugh again and tell each other stories like the one in which Vergani bought the entire production of the first vintage of the then unknown wine called Ferro, which is made from 100 percent Petit Verdot. At Vinitaly. At Alberto's. "Alberto calls me," says the Marchese, "... and tells me that Vergani has bought all the 2010 Ferro! I reacted a little angrily and explained to Alberto that that was absolutely not possible! Punto." - "This is one of the best Petit Verdot in the world," says Alberto, the Master of Wine Fiona Morrison told him when she tasted the Ferro from the barrel. She should know. After all, she is married to Jaques Thienpont and yes, Le Pin in Pommerol is one of the three châteaus that they run. "Fiona Morrison encouraged us because she said that she had never tasted a 100% Petit Verdot that was so complex and yet not vulgar," says Alberto Torelli, quite moved. The mineral-rich sand, clay and limestone soils and the north-facing location are responsible for this. Lamberto de' Frescobaldi intervenes again: «And then Reto Vergani came and bought everything!» A lunch was arranged, the mood was actually good, says the Marchese, and continues: «I allowed myself the quiet remark that I unfortunately had to keep 250 bottles of Ferro. Vergani did not listen. He only said that if I
